Marek Mára Holeček
One of the most successful Czech alpinists today. is interested in discovering new routes in the highest mountains in the world, but he is also an excellent rock climber and occasional sandstone climber. Marek has been climbing since he was a boy and as he says he will try to climb anything from 1 meter above sea level up to the Himalayan giants. He refuses to accept the idea that the ultimate climbing effort is to climb the highest point in altitude, because the character of the route, difficulty and style of ascent are important, too.
Marek was the first Czech to earn the most prestigious award of the Piolet d´Or for his first ascent in alpine style via the south-west face of Gasherbrum I in 2018. Two years later, he was awarded his second Piolet d´Or for his first ascent in alpine style on Chamlang (7319 m) with his climbing partner Zdeněk Hák.
Marek has been a member of the Czech national climbing team since 1996. The Czech Alpine Club has awarded him several awards (Climb of the Year and Climber of the Year). He is also a photographer, traveller, documentarist and author of several books.
Heavenly Trap – Marek Mára Holečk tells the story about the first ascent on Baruntse – a 7000-meter peak in Nepal
“I have been carrying that merciless look of the giantess in my head for several years,” says Marek Mára Holeček, an unconventional narrator and leader among Czech mountaineers climbing in the Himalayas in the recent years, when explaining his reasons why he chose the west face of Baruntse. He compares this beautiful mountain to da Vinci’s Mona Lisa. Marek and his climbing partner Radek Groh added one more world’s first ascent to their list of excellent achievements last spring. A dramatic weather change and extremely high risk of avalanche trapped them on the Baruntse summit range for several days after their successful ascent and complicated their return from the mountain. It was a true heavenly trap.