Kurt Diemberger

 

Kurt Diemberger / Rakúsko

Rakúsky horolezec, filmár, fotograf a publicista sa narodil v roku 1932. Na svojom konte má sedem výstupov na šesť osemtisícoviek. Je jediným žijúcim alpinistom, ktorému sa podarilo  vystúpiť na dve osemtisícovky medzi úplne prvými. Spolu s Hermannom Buhlom a dvomi ďalšími spoločníkmi zdolal v roku 1957 bez kyslíka a bez pomoci nosičov Broad Peak (8 047 m) –  Buhl tomu hovoril „alpský štýl“. Siedma najvyššia hora sveta – Dhaulágirí (8 167 m)  bola ešte v roku 1960 poslednou panenskou osemtisícovkou – no už len do 13. mája toho roku. Kurtovi Diembergerovi sa výstup podaril so švajčiarskym tímom – opäť  bez použitia kyslíka.

V Diembergerovom lezeckom živote nasledovala 18-ročná prestávka, cestoval po rôznych kútoch Zeme, skúmal, prežíval dobrodružstvá – napokon ho najvyššie vrchy sveta opäť zlákali:  na jar r. 1978 stál na Makalu (8 481 m), na jeseň toho roku stál na Evereste  (8 850 m), Gasherbrum II (8 035 m) nasledoval ďalšiu sezónu a nakoniec po dvadsiatich siedmich  rokoch vyšiel opäť na vrchol Broad Peaku… Tentokrát v sprievode Julie Tullis, s ktorou založili v roku 1983 „najvyšší  filmový tím sveta“, aby zážitky z veľkých hôr priniesli dole aj pre ostatných. Už predtým cestoval Kurt po rôznych krajinách ako horský fotograf, ako kameraman nakrúcal pre Francúzov scény do ozvučeného filmu z vrcholu Everestu, Američania ho poctili cenou Emmy za dokument o prvom pokuse vyliezť ťažkou východnou stenou na Mt. Everest.

V roku 1986, vo veku päťdesiatštyri rokov vystúpil na K2. Pri zostupe v búrke jeho spolulezkyňa a dlhoročná družka Julie Tullis zahynula. O tejto tragédii neskôr napísal knihu, ktorá na filmovom a knižnom festivale v Trente v roku 1989 získala cenou ITAS – najlepšia kniha o horách. Filmová verzia knižnej predlohy dostala v Trente hlavnú cenu festivalu – Zlatý encián. Kurt spolu s Juliou stihli ešte pred poslednou spoločnou cestou v tibetskej dedine Tashigang nakrútiť film Miesto šťastia. Bol to ich najlepší film.

Doma v Salzburgu (alebo v Bologni) stretnete svetobežníka Kurta len zriedka, buď je v Himalájach, v pralese, púšti, alebo možno v Grónsku. Doposiaľ napísal päť kníh (Vrchol a nebezpečenstvá – medzi  nulou a osemtisíc, Vrchol a tajomstvá, Nekonečný uzol: K2 – sen a osud, Precitnutie v neistote a Siedmy zmysel).

Kurt Diemberger bol čestným hosťom prvého ročníka MFHF v Poprade.

 

Kurt Diemberger / Austria

The Austrian alpinist, filmmaker, photographer and writer was born in 1932. His exploits include seven ascents on six 8000ers. He is the only living mountaineer who has made the first ascents on two mountains over 8,000m. In 1957, together with Hermann Buhl, Fritz Wintersteller and Marcus Schmuck, he conquered Broad Peak (8,047m) without the use of oxygen and porters – in a style that Buhl called „alpine“. The seventh highest mountain in the world Dhaulaghiri (8,167m) was still a virgin peak at the turn of the 50’s. But only until 13th May 1960. Kurt Diemberger reached the summit with a Swiss team this time and without oxygen again.

After a break of eighteen years, which brought him do different places in the world for travels, exploration and adventures, the high mountains called him back. He stood on the summit of the Makalu (8,481m) in spring 1978 and on the summit of Mt. Everest (8,450m) in autumn of the same year. These summits were followed by Gasherbrum II (8,035m) the following season and then by Broad Peak 27 years after his first ascent. This time he teamed up with Julie Tullis, with whom in 1983 he formed the „highest film team of the world“. Their common ambition was to bring the experience of the high mountains closer to the people. Earlier Kurt had travelled in many countries as mountain photographer. He shot the talkie scenes on the summit of the Everest for the French and was awarded the EMMY for his documentary about the first attempt of the difficult east face of Mt. Everest.

Aged 54 in 1986, he reached the summit of K2. However, Julie Tullis, Diemberger’s climbing partner and life companion, died in a storm during the descent. Diemberger wrote about the tragedy later in his book The Endless Knot: K2, Mountain of Dreams and Destiny which brought him the ITAS Prize for the best mountain book from the film and book festival in Trento in 1989. The film inspired by that book was awarded the “golden Enzian” Prize. Before their last exploit, Kurt and Julie shot a film called the Place of Luck in the Tibetan village of Tashigang. It was their best film ever.

You can hardly meet the globetrotter Kurt in his hometown Salzburg (or Bologna) for he is either in the Hilamayas, or wandering through the jungle or the desert, or maybe he has travelled over to Greenland. He is the author of five books (Spirits of the Air, Summits and Secrets, The Endless Knot: K2, Mountain of Dreams and Destiny; Breakthrough into the Unknown and The Seventh Sense).

Kurt Diemberger was guest at the first International Mountain Film Festival in Poprad.