Alex Txikon

Alex Txikon / Španielsko 

Pochádza z mesta Lemoa v Baskicku (r. 1981). Vyštudoval odbor inštruktor športovo-fyzických aktivít a popri štúdiu sa venoval futbalu a hádzanej. Aby si mohol financovať výjazdy do hôr, začal pracovať v stavebníctve.

S lezením začal v roku 1995 a už o tri roky absolvoval prvé ťažké výstupy na alpské štvortisícovky. Kariéru výškového horolezca začal v roku 2002 výstupmi na Pik Komunizmu (7 495 m) a Pik Korženevskej (7 201 m). O rok neskôr vystúpil na Broad Peak (8 047 m), svoju prvú osemtisícovku. V roku 2004 sa mu podarilo vystúpiť na Makalu (8 463 m) a Cho Oyu (8 201 m). So španielskou expedíciou (r. 2005) skúšal znovu dosiahnuť vrchol Makalu, tentoraz západným pilierom. Nepodarilo sa mu to, ale v lete zdolal v Kirgizsku Pik Lenina (7 134 m). V roku 2006 sa pokúsil o výstup britskou cestou v juhozápadnej stene Shisha Pangmy (8 031 m).  Vrchol sa mu však podarilo dosiahnuť až o rok neskôr. V roku 2008 stál na dvoch himalájskych vrcholoch – Dhaulagiri (8 167 m) a Manaslu (8 163 m). V roku 2010 dosiahol vrchol Annapurny (8 091 m) a opäť sa vrátil pod Shisha Pangmu. Tentoraz sa mu na ňu podarilo vystúpiť zo severozápadu. Rok 2011 strávil Alex v pakistanskom Karakorame. V januári sa pokúsil o prvý zimný výstup na Gasherbrum I (8 080 m). Na vrchol sa mu podarilo vystúpiť až v lete a pridal k tomu aj úspešný výstup na Gasherbrum II (8 035 m). Opakovane sa pokúšal o prelezenie Cesenovej cesty na K2 (skúšal to aj v r. 2004). V zime 2012 sa vrátil pod Gasherbrum I, no táto expedícia sa skončila tragédiou. Traja členovia jeho tímu zahynuli počas pokusu o výstup na vrchol.

Tento rok sa začal pre Alexa úspešne. V Karakorame urobil prvý zimný výstup na Laila Peak (6 200 m) a v Himalájach sa mu podarilo vystúpiť na Lhotse (8 516 m). V lete sa opätovne pokúsil o výstup na druhú najvyššiu horu sveta, K2. Tá mu však aj do tretice odolala.

Okrem výškového lezenia sa Alex venuje skalnému lezeniu, base jumpingu, ale aj tradičným baskickým športom – drevorubačstvu a dvíhaniu kameňov.

Alex Txikon / Spain

Alex (*1981) comes from Lemoa a city in the Basque region. He graduated as a sports instructor and played football and handball during the studies. In order to be able to pay his trips to the mountains, he started working in building industry.

Alex started climbing in 1995 and made his first difficult ascents on the 4,000m Alpine peaks only three years later. His career of a high altitude climber began in 2002 when he climbed Peak Communism (7,495m) and Peak Korzhenevskaya (7,201m). They were followed by Broad Peak (8,047m), Alex’s first 8,000m peak, the year after. In 2004, he climbed on Makalu (8,463m) and Cho Oyu (8,201m). In 2005, he tried to climb Makalu via the West Pillar route with a Spanish expedition. That attempt was a failure but Alex climbed Lenin Peak (7,134m) in Kyrgyzstan that summer. In 2006, he made an attempt on Shisha Pangma (8,031m) via the British Route on the south-west face. However, he did not reach the summit then, but he did the year after. Alex stood on two Himalayan peaks – Dhaulagiri (8,167m) and Manaslu (8,163m) in 2008. In 2010, he climbed Annapurna (8,091m) and returned to Shisha Pangma. His attempt from the north-west was successful. Alex spent the year 2011 in Karakoram, Pakistan. He made an attempt of a first winter ascent on Gasherbrum I (8,080m) in January but did not reach the summit before summer when he added one more successful ascent – on Gasherbrum II (8,035m). Alex has made several attempts in the Cesen Route on K2 (e.g. in 2004). In winter 2012, he returned to Gasherbrum I but the expedition ended in a tragedy. Three members of the team died during the attempt.

The current year started with a success for Alex. He made the first winter ascent on Laila Peak (6,200m) in Karakoram and climbed Lhotse (8,516m) in the Himalayas. In summer, he made yet another attempt on K2, the second highest peak of the world. But the mountain resisted again, for the third time.

Other sports that Alex does besides high altitude climbing include rock climbing, BASE jumping and some of the Basque rural sports such as woodcutting and stone lifting.