Martin Krasňanský
Martin Krasňanský sa narodil sa 27. 11. 1982 a vyrastal v Pezinku, vo vinárskej rodine. S lezením začal ako 17-ročný na skalkách v okolí Bratislavy a jedným z impulzov, ktoré ho k tomu viedli, bolo prečítanie kultovej knihy Ivana Baja Smiech na lane. Má skúsenosti s lezením v Anglicku, Alpách, Patagónii, Yosemitoch, v Pakistane, Grónsku, Indii i na Madagaskare, no najmä doma, v milovaných Tatrách. Tu sa mu podarilo urobiť viac ako 40 prvovýstupov a voľných priestupov v zime i v lete, ako napríklad zimný prvovýstup Veľke sceny su lem pre veľkych chlopoch (7 AF, M6+, E4) v SV stene Rumanovho štítu, či letný prvovýstup Super Bitch (8 RS5 PP) na ten istý vrchol, za ktoré bol roku 2016 ocenený Bronzovou karabínou SHS JAMES.
V roku 2015 získal Striebornú karabínu za prvovýstup Fatal Attraction (10-) v 550 metrov vysokej stene Domes v jordánskom Wadi Rum. Ďalšiu Striebornú karabínu získal v roku 2017 za prvý voľný priestup cesty L´ordutemps (7c+ RP) na Grand Capucin v Západných Alpách. Okrem toho sa mu v Alpách podarilo urobiť aj prvý zimný prelez ťažkej mixovej cesty Full Love (M7+ R) na Aguille Paigne. Striebornou karabínou bol ocenený aj za prvovýstup El Condor Pasa (10) v 750 metrov vysokej stene Cerro Trinidad v čilskej Patagónii. Darilo sa mu aj na Madagaskare, kde urobil druhé opakovanie cesty Tsaranoro – Soavadia (9+) a prvé OS prelezenie cesty King Lui (9).
Niekoľko pekných prvovýstupov sa mu podarilo urobiť aj v Grónsku. Je toho naozaj veľa, čo Martin za 25 rokov svojho horolezeckého života stihol. Skúsenosti má aj s výstupmi vo vysokých horách. V roku 2012 vyliezol na veži Uli Biaho v pakistanskom Karakorame nové cesty Paradise Circus (8+/9- A2) a Nilam na Jang (8 A2) a severným pilierom vystúpil na Great Trango. V roku 2019 sa v kultovej ceste Stairway to Heaven (7b) na Bhagirati III (6 456 m) v Garhválskych Himalájach dostal do výšky 6 150 metrov. Tým posledným, mimoriadne hodnotným, je tohtoročný prvý slovenský výstup na ikonickú vežu Trango Tower (6 254 m) v pakistanskom Karakorame, kde spolu so svojimi slovenskými spolulezcami Tomášom Bučekom, Michalom Mikušincom a Čechom Františkom Buličkom urobili druhé opakovanie cesty Gran Diedre Desplomado (7b+ A3).
Martin sa necíti byť ani tak horolezcom, ale skôr lezcom, pretože ako on sám hovorí: „Tento vertikálny balet mám rád v celej jeho komplexnosti.“ Láska k lezeniu ovplyvnila nielen to, ako trávi voľný čas, ale aj jeho prácu, vzťahy a v neposlednom rade aj rodinný život. Svoj nový domov našiel na Liptove, kde teraz žije spolu s manželkou Zuzkou a ich tromi deťmi.
Martin Krasňanský was born on November 27, 1982 and grew up in Pezinok, in a winemaking family. He started climbing at 17 on the rocks near Bratislava, and one of the impulses that led him to do it was reading the cult book Laughter on the Rope by Ivan Bajo. He has climbed in England, the Alps, Patagonia, the Yosemite, Pakistan, Greenland, India, and Madagascar, but especially at home, in the beloved Tatras. Here he managed to make more than 40 first ascents and free climbs both in winter and summer, such as the winter first ascent of the Veľke sceny su lem pre veľkych chlopoch (7 AF, M6+, E4) in the NE face of Rumanov štít peak, or the summer first ascent of Super Bitch (8 RS5 PP) to the same peak, for which he was awarded the SHS JAMES Bronze carabiner in 2016.
In 2015, he won the Silver Carabiner for the first ascent of Fatal Attraction (10-) in the 550-meter Domes wall in Wadi Rum, Jordan. He won another Silver Carabiner in 2017 for the first free ascent of the L’or du temps route (7c+ RP) on the Grand Capucin in the Western Alps. In addition, he also managed to make the first winter ascent of the difficult mixed route Full Love (M7+ R) on Aguille Paigne in the Alps. He was also awarded a silver carabiner for the first ascent of El Condor Pasa (10) in the 750-meter high wall of Cerro Trinidad in Chilean Patagonia. He also did well in Madagascar, where he did the second repetition of the Tsaranoro – Soavadia route (9+) and the first OS ascent of the King Lui route (9).
He also managed to make several nice first ascents in Greenland. There is really a lot that Martin has managed in his 25 years of mountaineering life. He also has experience with ascents in high mountains. In 2012 he climbed the new routes Paradise Circus (8+/9- A2) and Nilam na Jang (8 A2) on the Uli Biaho tower in the Pakistani Karakoram and climbed Great Trango via the north pillar. In 2019, he reached the altitude of 6,150 meters in the iconic Stairway to Heaven (7b) on Bhagirati III (6,456 m) in the Garhwal Himalayas. The last, extremely valuable one is this year’s first Slovak ascent of the iconic Trango Tower (6,254 m) in the Pakistani Karakoram, where he did the second repetition of the Gran Diedre Desplomado route (7b+ A3 ) together with his Slovak fellow climbers Tomáš Buček, Michal Mikušinec, and the Czech climber František Buliček.
Martin does not feel like a mountaineer, but rather a climber, because as he says: „I like this vertical ballet in all its complexity.“ The love of climbing has influenced not only how he spends his free time but also his work, relationships and, last but not least, family life. He found his new home in the Liptov region, where he now lives with his wife Zuzka and their three children.
